Thursday 21 August 2014

League table of London Porters in the 1920's

If I'd realised how long this series was going to take to complete, I doubt I'd have started it. Andrew was still wearing nappies back then. Now he can legally drink.

I'm not surprised by the overall results. Porter was a drink just slipping over the edge of the cliff and about to plunge to extinction. It's own logical that a lot of it would be dodgy as falling demand had it sitting around in the cellar too long. Seventeen of the 92 samples (18.5%) were described as sour or going off. That certainly makes it sound like old beer was the problem.

The average scores are easily the worst so far. Fewer than half the breweries - five from eleven - finished above zero. The bottom three all performed dreadfully, Cannon the worst of the bunch averaging -2.56 and without a single good sample. Of the 29 samples from the three bottom-placed breweries only three were sound. You defiinitely wouldn't want to drink Porter in a City of London, Cannon or Hoare pub, The irony is that both City of London and Hoare had made their names in the 18th century as Porter breweries. The average for all Porters was negative, the first time that's happened, except for watery MA.

Whitbread and Watney have again scored well. If you take all the beers so far into account, they're no. 1 and no. 2. Truman and Courage have also acquitted themselves well again, though Mann's performance is somewhat disappointing this time out.

Once again the beer specs are pretty similar across the different breweries: OG 1034 - 1039, 3 - 3.9% ABV, around 70% apparent attenuation. From the relatively high finishing gravities I'd deduce that they were trying to leave some body in the beer.

Here's the main league table:

League table of 1920s London Porters by score
Brewery FG OG ABV App. Atten-uation score
Watney 1010.0 1035.0 3.24 71.28% 1.44
Whitbread 1011.9 1034.7 2.95 65.87% 1.33
Truman 1010.5 1037.0 3.43 71.62% 0.67
Lion 1009.6 1037.7 3.64 74.35% 0.63
Courage 1010.9 1037.5 3.45 70.88% 0.22
Mann 1009.2 1038.8 3.83 76.23% -0.25
Wenlock 1011.3 1034.3 2.97 66.94% -0.33
Barclay Perkins 1011.6 1037.5 3.35 68.98% -0.63
Hoare 1010.4 1034.0 3.06 69.38% -1.56
City of London 1008.9 1036.1 3.54 75.56% -2
Cannon 1009.6 1034.6 3.25 72.38% -2.56
average 1010.2 1036.1 3.35 71.60% -0.42
Source:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001


Ordering it by percentage with a good flavour gives pretty much the same result:

League table of 1920s London Porters by good flavour
Brewery No. examples no. good flavour % good flavour score
Watney 9 8 88.89% 1.44
Truman 9 7 77.78% 0.67
Lion 8 6 75.00% 0.63
Whitbread 3 2 66.67% 1.33
Mann 8 5 62.50% -0.25
Courage 9 5 55.56% 0.22
Barclay Perkins 8 4 50.00% -0.63
Wenlock 9 4 44.44% -0.33
Hoare 9 2 22.22% -1.56
City of London 11 1 9.09% -2
Cannon 9 0 0.00% -2.56
average 92 44 47.83% 0.32
Source:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001


Cannon's 100% bad for flavour score is impressive in a perverse way. It makes me almost want to go out and give it a try. To see if it could really always be in such poor condition.

Comparing all the styles so far, Porter is easily last, quite a way behind even MA and well below the average of 0.32.

Averages per beer type
beer type No. examples no. bright % bright no. good flavour % good flavour average score
Burton Average 138 61 44.20% 92 66.67% 0.72
Mild Average 188 112 59.57% 112 59.57% 0.16
X Average 170 104 61.18% 106 62.35% 0.23
MA Average 18 8 44.44% 6 33.33% -0.18
PA Average 167 85 50.90% 109 65.27% 0.62
8d PA Average 118 62 52.54% 76 64.41% 0.52
9d PA Average 49 23 46.94% 33 67.35% 0.88
Porter 92 44 47.83% -0.42
Average 585 258 44.10% 357 61.03% 0.32
Source:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001


Once again, I'm struck by the fact that the top six breweries all survived until the 1960's, with the exception of Lion. the bottom three all left brewing in the 1920's. That surely can't be a coincidence?

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