Monday, 4 June 2012

Charrington buys Hoare

So you remember the Toby jug symbol? It was all over Charrington pubs back in the days when hair was long and flares were wide. I didn't realise that it hadn't been their trademark originally. They'd only acquired it in 1934 with the purchase or Hoare.

Hoare had been one of the big boys back in Porter's heyday, brewing more than Barclay Perkins in 1748. In the second half of the 18th century they slipped behind Barclay Perkins, Combe, Whitbread and Calvert and never quite managed to break through the 100,000 barrel barrier, their output peaking at 97,600 barrels in 1796*. In the early 19th century they produced 60,000 to 70,000 barrels a year and were most definitely in the second division of London brewers.

Charrington was the first London Ale brewer to break into the big time. As public taste moved from Porter to Mild Ale in the second half of the 19th century, they expanded rapidly. The purchase of Hoare cemented their position as one of London's leading brewers.

Now we've done the contextualising, here's the article:

"CHARRINGTON AND CO., LTD.
Trade Conditions and the Beer Duty.

The ordinary general meeting of Charrington and Co.. Ltd. was held on the 10th inst., at the Anchor Brewery, Mile End, London, E.

Mr. Cecil E. W. Charrington, M.C. (the chairman of the company), presided.

I do not propose to go into the details of our deal with Messrs Hoare and Co., for the simple reason that it would take a very long time. The negotiations were very long and intricate, but I may say at once that the terms were accepted by both sides with a minimum of disagreement. As regards Messrs. Charrington and Co.'s Ordinary and Preference shareholders, although they did not all agree, not a single one objected; and in the case of Messrs. Hoare and Co. (there were only Ordinary shareholders there), less than half of 1 per cent, objected. Therefore, I think we can congratulate ourselves, in an amalgamation of this size, that the two bodies of shareholders came to such an amicable agreement.

The net result of this big "deal" has been a very large increase in the company's liabilities, but I trust it has also been a very valuable addition to our assets. I may say that the directors of Charrington and Co. did not enter lightly into these new commitments, nor did they very willingly put an end to what had been for 150 years an almost purely family business, but they considered that an amalgamation with a firm of the same size and standing as themselves would in the long run be in the best interests of the company.

The issue of the £4,500,000 Debenture stock at 98 we can consider, I think, on the whole, quite satisfactory. I am well aware that it we were going into the Money Market at the present moment we could get better terms, but we must not forgot that if we had wanted to raise this large sum of money only three or four years ago we should no doubt have had to do so on a 5.5 per cent, basis. I think we can congratulate ourselves that we were able to issue the debentures at 4 per cent. None of the prior charges bears a higher rate than 4 per cent.

Now, as regards the trading conditions of the year. You will have gathered from the printed report that the first four months of the year were extremely bad. The "Snowden" tax of 1931 had a very damaging influence on our trade when it started, but it had an increasingly severe effect as time went on. - The first four months of last year were quite the worst period for trailing that we have experienced since the war. Our barrelage dropped very considerably until about the end of April, 1933; the increase in the last eight months of the year did not quite make up the leeway lost in the first four months. Unfortunately, the present Chancellor of the Exchequer took eighteen months instead of only six to find out the great mistake his predecessor had made. When he did find it out, 1 think he met the situation fairly He said: "The public are to get their beer cheaper, but I am going to ask the brewers to do something for me" —and he asked us to increase our gravity by two degrees and  to  use  more  British  malt. Well, that was an expensive matter to brewers, but it enabled us to inform the public that beer would be "cheaper and better" and good advertising can never be had for nothing.

The continuance of the policy has been strongly recommended by the Brewers' Society, and is being strictly adhered to by this company.

The "Snowden"  tax, besides damaging the brewing trade and threatening the Exchequer with consistently diminishing returns on the beer duty, hit the retail trade with exceptional severity. While we have made considerable reductions in our rents of licensed property, I regard it as a very real grievance on the part of the licensed victualler that no reduction has beer made in the licence duties.

With regard to our beers, during the past 12 month they have been excellent. In taking over this large increase in trade we are installing the very best plan available, for I do not believe it is ever good policy to do anything which might interfere with the quality of the article produced. We have a very fine site, and one which has proved readily capable of expansion.

As regards our licensed property, we have spent last year about an average sum on repairs to houses and on rebuildings of old properties, and on the erection of modern public-houses. I hope they will be well patronised by our shareholders and the public at large.

It is really outside my scope, I think, to deal with the closing down of the Red Lion Brewery and the concentration of the work here at the Anchor Brewery but I feel sure you would like to know that we run already taken over the supply of a large number of the houses that were supplied by Messrs. Hoare and Co.

There is one more matter to which 1 ought to refer, and that is the matter of compensation for the staff of Messrs. Hoare's Brewery. It was part of the terms of our "deal" with Messrs. Hoare that a definite lump sum should be guaranteed by Charringtons for that purpose, and that sum was agreed at £25,000. I do not think that that will be an adequate amount, but that was the sum agreed on; if necessary we shall, course, add to it. But it is only right for me to tell you that during his lifetime Sir John Ellerman, without making a definite promise, said he would like out his own pocket to add to that fund. Unfortunately, he died very shortly after the "deal" was completed but his executors felt that they would be carrying out his wishes (and they were entitled to do so under the terms of his will) by dealing with the matter; they have most generously promised to grant the sum of £20,000 towards that fund."
Brewers' Journal 1934, page 280.
It's no surprise that Hoare's Red Lion Brewery was closed straight away. Charrington had a modern brewery of their own not far away. Supplying Hoare's tied estate wouldn't be a problem.

Wondering what the "Snowden tax" was? A salutary lesson for greedy governments, that's what it was. In 1931 Philip Snowden, Labour Chancellor of the Exchequer, raised beer duty from 84 shillings a standard barrel to 114 shillings. What happened next? Brewers cut gravities so the retail price could remain the same and the revenue raised actually fell. The tax collected didn't return to its 1930 level until 1940.


Tax and beer output 1930 - 1938
Year Bulk Barrels Std. Barrels Tax/Std. Brl Av. sg Total Tax £
1930 25,061,956 19,550,867 80s 1042.9 71,254,674
1931

114s

1932 20,790,812 15,514,209 114s 1041.04 68,710,020
1933 17,950,303 12,658,324 114s 1039.52 67,097,581
1934 20,182,308 15,043,120 80s 1040.99 53,884,405
1935 20,864,814 15,577,836 80s 1041.06 53,582,335
1936 21,969,763 16,386,985 80s 1041.02 55,451,926
1937 22,724,450 16,985,231 80s 1041.1 57,318,585
1938 24,205,631 18,055,539 80s 1041.02 61,241,404
Source:
1955 Brewers' Almanack, page 50.

Eventually the tax was dropped back to 80 shillings when the brewers agreed to raise gravities.

Given the slump that it caused in beer production, the tax rise and Hoare's decision to sell may well have been connected.



* “The Brewing Industry in England 1700-1830”, Peter Mathias, 1959, p 551-552

Sunday, 3 June 2012

Lambic

One thing I love about the Brewers' Journal is that it wasn't inward looking. It regularly included articles about foreign beer and brewing. As srticles written by people conversant with breing for an audience of brewers, they're much more valuable than articles from a general newspaper or magazine.

You can imagine my delight when I found an article about Lambic. I don't know about you, but I can never learn too much about Lambic. This piece is particularly informatibve with regards to brewing techniques.

"LAMBIC

Visitors to Belgium usually wish to taste some of the beers typical of that country, such as Lambic or Faro, though they afterwards admit, not infrequently, that their palates would require a certain amount of education before they could fully appreciate the special qualities of these beverages. One of the characteristics of these beers consists in the use of grain other than barley. Wheat is generally used in the form of raw grain mixed with malt. The quantity employed may be even equal to that of the malt, it is usually said that wheat beers froth a great deal, but it would be more correct to say that they hold their head better than all-malt beer. Lactic and acetic acid are very quickly produced in them, and this is one of the characteristics of the Special Brussels beers. The high percentage of acids produced esterifies the alcohol during storage and gives the typical aromas to these beers. Use of different kinds of wheat gives special characteristics to the beers, while rye, oats and buckwheat are also occasionally used in addition.

The fermentation  methods adopted  in the breweries may resemble either bottom or top fermentation. In the first case the temperature is kept below 50 deg. Fahr. and the yeast settles on the bottom of the fermenting vessel. The top fermentations are carried out at the temperature of the air and the yeast comes up. In certain cases the fermentation is spontaneous and started by organisms from the air or in the casks. This fermentation is very slow, and is not now used in the breweries devoted to making these beers.

Additions of wort or very acid old beer play a very important part in the brewing. These are made in variable proportions to suit the taste of customers, and sometimes even vinegar or acetic acid are added. The old beer is acid and has passed through a sequence of diseases. If it is added to the casks, it is advisable to pasteurise it by heating it for a short time at 158 deg. Fahr. If the old beer is added before fermentation, it may be boiled for a few minutes in the copper and afterwards passed over the refrigerator before mixing with the wort in the starting vessel.

Tho spontaneously fermented beers of the Brussels district are usually browed from equal parts of malt and ungerminated wheat. Several types are frequently obtained from the same brew. For example, the first wort gives Lambic, the later runnings give March or small beer. Faro is obtained by blending the two. The Lambic is often kept two or even three years before use. Gueuse-lambic is natural Lambic to which no additions have been made. The customer may add sugar if he so desires. It is often kept several years in bottle.

One is frequently asked what is the origin of the name Gueuse-lambic. It may simply be the Lambic of the poor. It is known that the latter adopt as a title of honour the name which was given to them in contempt. The poor woodmen and sailors reserve for themselves the best drinks and foods they produce.

Tasting is a very important ceremony in the preparation of special beers. As with all luxury drinks, the aim is always to please customers. Each brewery consequently has a taster who has to determine the quantity of candy syrup or old beer which must be added. He has to regulate the blends and must know the taste of every customer. Each brewery thus tends to produce a beer of special flavour and the fermentations differ from one brewery to another. Details of brewing also influence the flavour. Thus blending in cask or fermenting vessel have different effects. It has been noticed that the flavours marry better in the latter case, as some of the constituents of the old beer may be modified during fermentation. The Lambic may contain all sorts of disease organisms and may have suffered from ropiness or haze. The yeast must consequently progressively become more infected, and the bad effects show themselves in the beer after quite lengthy periods of storage, sometimes months or even a year. Wort to which additions are to be made is comparatively strong, and in it 25 to 50 per cent, of wheat or other grain is used, with 8 to 12 lb. per barrel of hops. The beer is fermented in large storage casks und clarifies spontaneously. After the secondary fermentation it is kept long enough to become definitely acid.

The alcohol content of Lambic varies from 4 to over 6 per cent., with solid matter between 6 and 3 per cent. The beers are better fermented in open casks than in fermenting vessels as the attenuation is too rapid in the latter. The lactic acid develops first followed by the acetic. The fermentation is slow and the characteristic flavour is not developed in less than a year. The beers are very dextrinous.
—Petite Gazette du Brasseur."
Brewers' Journal 1932, page 581.

My palate certainly needed education to appreciate Lambic. I was didtinctly unimpressed the first time I tried it. But with knowledge has come love. I'd forgotten just how much I loved Lambic until we bumped into one another at the ZBF this year. When we parted, we promised to keep in touch this time. I hope we do.

Rye, oats and buckwheat used, too? Sounds very renaissance. A couple of hundred years ago three or four grain beers were the norm in the Low Countries. With oats often making up a surprising proportion of the grist - more than 50% sometimes. It sounds like Lambic fits right in with this tradition.

I'd heard before that Lambic and March beer came from the same mash. And I'm pretty sure that I'd also heard Faro was a blend of the two. Adding sugar when drinking seems to have been commonplace in the past. Modern sweetened Lambics - Belle Vue comes to mind - no doubt grew out of this practice.

That "taster" sounds remarkably like what we would call a blender. Though now I guess in Oude Geuze there's no sugar added.

That hopping rate of 8 to 12 pounds per barrel. Can that be right? I know they used old hops, but that's a huge quantity. Even Barclay's Russian Stout only had 10 pounds per barrel.

Saturday, 2 June 2012

Scotland's plea for improved public houses


What a weird, twisted bunch temperance campaigners were. They didn't want to see pubs improve. Oh no. They wanted them to remain miserable drinking dens so that they could campaign against them more easily. It seems to be the main reason they kept pushing the local veto polls when it became clear that no more than a handful of districts would ever vote to go dry.

Why did the veto polls stop pubs improving? Because the threat of having your pub snatched away from you once every three years was a huge disincentive to making any improvements.

"SCOTLAND'S PLEA FOR IMPROVED PUBL1C-HOUSES.
The improved public-house is the bete noir of the enemies of the Trade. Although the so-called Scottish (Temperance) Act of 1913 has failed, and has resulted in not one licence being permanently extinguished, it has succeeded in one particular it has kept the licensed houses of Scotland relatively antiquated and unimproved. From the point of view of the rigid teetotaler, therefore, it has by no means been abortive.

But this is only one side of the question. In Scotland the vast majority of licensed premises are owned by their occupiers, over whose heads has hung the shadow of the guillotine since the Act became operative in 1920. A man whose business may he extinguished at any triennial period, whose security of tenure is subject to the possibility of extinction every three years, is least of all likely to be found modernising or adapting his premises by the expenditure of large sums to this end.

It has for some years been obvious to any student of the liquor position in Scotland that matters cannot remain where they are, moribund, in the rut of the teetotalers' making. The Scottish Royal Commission in its Majority Report dealt the Act of 1913 a severe body blow, but refrained from giving it the complete knock-out. "Let it go on yet a little while longer," they said in effect, "for peradventure wisdom in the matter will arise from the people themselves."

Meanwhile, Lord Salvesen, Chairman of the Scottish Public-House Reform League, has loosened the controversial cat amongst the teetotal pigeons by addressing to Members of Parliament two questions. The first asked whether they favour legislation for the improvement of public-houses on the basis that such premises should receive a definite security of tenure so long as they are properly conducted; the second asks whether they favour abolition of the triennial Local Veto polls. We doubt not that of those to whom the questionnaire was addressed a number will be engaged in giving "no reply." Others, if they represent Scottish constituencies, will probably be seeking some "safety first" answers in an endeavour successfully to skate over the thin ice which Lord Salvesen has prepared for their doubtful enjoyment.

But something must be done. All constructive, proposals for reform have been sidetracked for many years past; so far as the improvement of existing licensed houses and of new ones is concerned, stagnation has prevailed. Meanwhile, the triennial polls have confessedly become a dead letter, from which not even the centenary of teetotalism and the "seven wise men of Preston" were capable of reviving them."
Brewers' Journal 1934, page 246.

I must find out when (if ever) the idiot local veto polls were stopped. They couldn't still be continuing, could they?

Friday, 1 June 2012

Edinburgh United Breweries is launched

It seems like ages since I last reproduced a company prospectus. As I realise how much you all love them, here's another.

This is a rather special one. For several reasons. Firstly, it's one of the earliest large mergers in British brewing. It marks the beginning of a new phase in the industry. An age of brewery combines operating from multiple plants. By combining forces, the four breweries involved immediately promoted themselves to being one of Scotland's largest beer producers. It's this process of mergers and takeovers that eventually led to the formation of the Big Six in the 1960's.

What's significant is that this predates by almost a decade the first big London merger, that of Watney Combe and Reid to form, er, Watney, Combe, Reid. Already substantial breweries in their own right, after the merger they became the third-largest in the country, trailing behind only Guinness and Bass.

Right. On the with the dull bit. See if you can spot the unusual way the assets were purchased by the new company. It's important for what happened later.

"The LIST of APPLICATIONS will OPEN on THURSDAY, the 19th Day of December, 1889, and will CLOSE on or before SATURDAY, the 21st Day of December, 1889,
THE EDINBURGH UNITED BREWERIES, LIMITED.

SHARE CAPITAL, £450,000. Divided into—
12,500 Six Per Cent. Cumulative Preference Shares of £10 Each,     £125,000
12,500 Ordinary Shares of £10 Each, . . ..             125,000
                                £250,000
Five Per Cent. First Mortgage Debentures, £200,000.
Present Issue— £110,000 in Preference Shares, £110,000 in Ordinary Shares, and £200,000 in Debentures.

The Shares are Payable as follows, viz. :— 10s per Share on Application, £4 10s per Share on Allotment, and the balance by two instalments of £2 10s each per Share at two and four months thereafter.

The first Mortgage Debentures, which will be issued in multiples of £10, are payable— 5 per cent, on application, and 95 per cent, on allotment.

TRUSTEES FOB THE DEBENTURES.
The Commercial Union Brewery Investment Corporation, Limited.

DIRECTORS.
Sir W. Hamilton Dalrymple, Bart., of North Berwick,
C. Page Wood, Esq.
F. M. Haig, Esq., Director of Parker's Burslem Brewery, limited.
Percy Reid, Esq., of Messrs Prior & Reid, Brewers, Hatfield.
*Duncan Stewart. Esq., Edinburgh and Leith Brewing Company.
*Archibald Smith. Esq., Summerhall Brewery, Edinburgh.

MANAGING DIRECTOR.
*Mr William Stewart, late Managing Partner of Edinburgh and Leith Brewing Company.

*Will join the Board after Allotment.

BANKERS.
The Royal Bank, of Scotland, 123 Bishopsgate Street, London ; St Andrew's Square, Edinburgh : and Branches.

SOLICITORS.
Messrs Nicholson, Graham, A Graham, 21 Coleman Street, London. E.C. Messrs Whillip, Laing, A Co., 41 Charlotte Square, Edinburgh.

BROKERS.
Messrs Panmure Gordon. Hill, & Co., Hatton Court, Threadneedle Street, London, E.C.
Messrs John Robertson & Co., 31 George Street, Edinburgh.

AUDITORS.
Messrs J. R. Ellerman & Co., 12 Moorgate Street, London, E.C.
Messrs F. J. Moncreiff & Horsbrugh, 40 Castle Street, Edinburgh.

SECRETARY (pro tem.)
Mr F. G. Burt.

Temporary London Offices— 12 Moorgate Street, London, E.C.
Registered Offices— Bells Brewery, Edinburgh.

ABRIDGED PROSPECTUS.
This Company has been formed to acquire, amalgamate, and carry on four well-known and old-established Breweries in Edinburgh, viz :— (1) The Edinburgh and Leith Brewery (Robert Disher A Co.) ; (2) Ritchie A Sons' Bells Brewery ; (2) Robin, McMillan, & Co.,Summerhall Brewery ; and (4) D. Nicholson's Palace Brewery and Wholesale Wine and Spirit Business. By amalgamation material economies in the expenses should be effected, both of production and distribution. The businesses are all old-established, and have been successfully carried on up to the present time.

EDINBURGH AND LEITH BREWING COMPANY.
This Business, better known out of Scotland as Robert Disher A Co., has been carried on by a large private Copartnery since 1821. The Business even then was old established. Its products enjoy an almost world-wide reputation, "Disher's Ten Guinea Ale" being among them. The trade mark is well known throughout the country. The Company acquire the valuable feuhold Brewery covering two acres of ground, consisting of Brewhouse, Tun, and Square, Rooms, Coolers, Cellars, Cooper-house, Yards, Stables. Maltings, &c, Horses, Drays, Carts, subject to a nominal rent practically equal to freehold.

Attached to this Business are Agencies in London, Glasgow, Newcastle, and many other important towns.

In addition to the well-established home trade a large Business is done in England, where Disher's Ales are well known. Included in the purchase are certain dwelling-houses, &c, and there is room for extension if necessary.

G. RITCHIE AND SONS' BELLS BREWERY.
This Business is very old established, having existed prior to 1755. Its Beers enjoy the best reputation. A large trade is done with the North of England, Agencies being numerous and well established, the principal in England and Ireland being at Newcastle, Sunderland, Manchester, Hull, Cardiff, Dublin, and Belfast.

The Brewery, which is feuhold at a nominal rent, practically equal to freehold, covers two-and-a-half acres of ground, and consists of Brewhouse fitted with 50-qr. plant maltkilns, with a capacity of over 19,000 qrs., Office, Cooperage Stores, and Stables. There is an excellent supply of good water for brewing purposes from a well on the premises.

Included in the purchase of this Brewery are loans to publicans, andseven Publichouses or Beerhouses, Cottages, Horses, Drays, Carts, &c.

ROBIN, McMILLAN, A CO.'S SUMMERHALL BREWERY.
This Business has been established over 150 years. The Brewery, which is feuhold at a nominal rent practically equal to freehold, covers about two acres of ground, and consists of Brewhouse Maltings with a capacity of 9000 quarters — 40-qr. plant, and the usual appliances. There is an excellent supply of water from a well on the premises. This Brewery also does a considerable trade in England, and has many well-established Agencies, besides its home trade. Included in the purchase are Horses, Drays, Carts, Ac.

D. NICOLSON's PALACE BREWERY.
This Business is also old established, and its Beer enjoys a good reputation. The capacity of the Brewery is, however, much larger than the present output. The tenure is feuhold at a nominal rent, practically equal to freehold. It has a 40-qr. plant, with the usual appliances, horses, carts, &c, with Maltings at the Brewery and at Jane Terrace, equal to 10,000 qrs. There are many well established Agencies and a small export trade attached to the Brewery, and carried on in conjunction therewith is a Wholesale Wine and Spirit Business, and the extension of this to the customers of the other Breweries should yield large additional profits.

The books of the Edinburgh and Leith Brewing Company for the year, ending 31st August, 1889 ; and also of G. Ritchie & Son, Bells Brewery, and of D. Nicolson & Son, Palace Brewery, and Wine and Spirit Business, for the year, ending 31st December, 1888, have been examined by Messrs F. J. Moncreiff & Horsbrugh, of Edinburgh, and Messrs J. R. Ellerman & Co., of London, whose reports state that the net profits, after making provision for bad debts, depreciation, &c, amounted to £22,528. They have also examined the books of Messrs Robin, McMillan, & Co. for the three years ending 30th September last, and certify the average annual profits at £5939, after making provision for bad debts, depreciation, &c.

Thus the total profits of the four Businesses amounts to £28,467 per annum. The trade of G. Ritchie A Sons is increasing very rapidly, the sales for the year ending 31st December, 1888, being 33.000 barrels, while this year, up to the 30th November last, they have been at the rate of 39,000 barrels per annum, which will undoubtedly increase this year's profit.

The sales of the Edinburgh and Leith Brewing Company (Disher's Ale) have also been rapidly increasing, but the balance-sheet is taken to a more recent date. Still, the sales for September, October, and November last exceeded those of the corresponding months of last year by 1517 Barrels, or at the rate to over 6000 Barrels per annum.

The two other Businesses are also doing a good and increasing trade, and the total Barrelage of the Combined Businesses for the year ending 30th November, 1889, was 110,000 Barrels, showing a considerable increase upon the previous year.

The Amalgamation of the four Businesses under one management must not only tend to increase the sales and effect economies both in cost of production and distribution, but should lessen the competition the existing firms individually are subject to, and convert them into one large concern, whose trade marks should enjoy great publicity.

To pay 5 per cent, on £200,000 Debentures requires         £10,000
To pay 6 per cent, on £110,000 Preference shares requires     6,600
                                £16,000

Thus if the profits only amount to £25,467, as shown by Messrs F. J. Moncreiff & Horsbrugh and Messrs J. R. Ellerman & Co.'s reports, there would remain, after paying the above £16,600, a sum exceeding 10 per cent, on the Ordinary Shave Capital, apart from the increase in the respective businesses above indicated, and the extra profit anticipated from the amalgamation, which will accrue entirely to the Ordinary Shares.

The properties have been acquired by Mr W. H. Dunn, the vendor to the Company, upon the terms of the contracts presently described, and he has fixed the price to be paid by the Company for the whole of the properties, breweries, maltkilns, loans to publicans, wine and spirit stores, plant, goodwill, horses, &c, at £320.000. The Company will not take over any of the liabilities of the respective firms.

Under the above arrangement there will be a Working Capital of £100,000. The Company will also have £30,000 of Unissued Capital for extending the Business from time to time.

Application will be made for a quotation on the London, Edinburgh, and Dublin Stock Exchanges.

Special attention is drawn to the fact that there will be no Mortgages on any of the properties other than that for securing the First Mortgage Debentures.

The following contracts have been entered into : — A contract dated the 1st and 11th November, 1889, and made between Robert Robin, Archibald Smith, and William Greenlees of the one part, and W. H. Dunn of the other part ; a contract dated the 4th and 11th November, 1889, and made between James Alexander Molleson of the one part, and W. H. Dunn of the other part; a contract dated the 10th and 18th November, 1889, and made between George Ritchie of the one part, and W. H. Dunn of the other part ; a contract dated the 23d and 25th November, 1889, and made between Robert Robin, Archibald Smith, and William Greenlees of the one part, and W. H. Dunn of the other part; a contract dated the 26th November and 6th December, 1889, and made between the Edinburgh and Leith Brewing Company and the shareholders thereof of the one part, and W. H. Dunn of the other part ; a contract dated the 14th day of December, 1889, between W. H. Dunn of the one part, and the Company of the other part, for the sale by Mr Dunn to the Company of the said business, properties, and effects at a profit, Mr Dunn paying all expenses attending the incorporation and registration of the Company, and also all underwriting, brokerage, commissions, printing, advertisement, and expenses attending the formation of the Company up to and including allotment.

Other arrangements have been entered into with various persons, which may constitute contracts within the meaning of the 38th section of the Companies Act, 1867.

There are also various contracts connected with the Breweries, &c, as a going concern, which, from the nature of the business, it might be injudicious to publish.

Applicants for Shares must therefore be deemed to waive the insertion of dates and names of the parties to any such arrangements or contracts, and, in order to prevent any questions, must accept the above statement as a sufficient compliance with Section 38 of the Companies Act, 1867, and otherwise.

The Memorandum and Articles of Association of the Company, together with copies of the above-named Contracts and of the reports of Messrs F. J. Moncreiff A Horsbrugh and Messrs J. R. Ellerman & Co., can be inspected at the Offices of the Solicitors of the Company.

Prospectuses and Forms of Application can be obtained at the Offices of the Company or at the Offices of the Bankers, Brokers, and Solicitors."
Dundee Courier - Wednesday 18 December 1889, page 1.

See what was odd? The breweries weren't sold directly to the new company. They were purchased by Mr. W.H. Dunn who then sold them on to the company. I'm not sure I understand why the deal was done this way. What I do know, is that it led to a court case. A very long and drawn out one.

This is one of those prospecti with some useful details, not just about profits (we've learned just how unreliable those can be) but of output. 110,000 barrels a year (the combined output of all four breweries) was very substantial in Scottish terms. To contextualise that, the largest London brewer, Barclay Perkins, brewed just over 500,000 barrels in 1889*.

That Disher's Ten Guinea Ale is specifically mentioned shows gives an indication of its renown. It even survived the closure of the Edinburgh and Leith brewery.

On the face of it, this merger seemed a smart move. The company got a jump on its competitors both in terms of company organisation (this was one of the first Scottish brewery flotations) and in output. They should have gone on from strength to strength. But, just as so often, things weren't quite that simple.




* "The British Brewing Industry, 1830-1980" T. R. Gourvish & R.G. Wilson, pages 610-611

Thursday, 31 May 2012

Fuller's X Ale 1914 - 1920


It seems ages since I last had a ridiculously long series of ridiculously complex tables. Seeing as I've been transcribing Fullers records for the last two weeks, they seem an obvious place to start.

WW I. In addition to piling up corpses in Flanders, it also played havoc with British brewing. The strength and variety of British beer would never be as great again. Looking at an individual beer conveys a good impression of these changes. Today we'll be holding Fuller's X in the searchlight, hoping we can track it long enough until one of our ack-ack guns can pin it.

As with the vast majority of other British brewers at the time, X Ale, or standard Mild Ale, was Fuller's bread and butter beer. They brewed more of it than anything else. But being the biggest seller also meant that it had to bear the brunt of any changes forced either through shortages or government decree.

Looking at the table below, it's pretty easy to spot the key dates: April 1917 and April 1918. Because the decline in OG isn't lineal. There are a couple of sharp drops, followed by a period of relative stability. Up until April 1917 the gravity had dropped a little, around 4 or 5 points. Then it suddenly loses 11 points. It remains steady at 1035-ish for another year, then plummets another 8 points. Down into the regions of intoxication-free drinking.

As you can see, the end of the war didn't bring immediate relief to drinkers. X Ale remained at 1027 for almost a year after the Armistice, before creeping up to 1030. Though the situation is complicated by the introduction of a stronger Mild, XX Ale, at the arse end of 1919. Fullers continued to brew X Ale and XX Ale right through the interwar period. X Ale becoming an example of a new style. A low-gravity Mild sold at a cheap price.

Most London brewers did something similar, effectively continuing to brew the hated wartime "Government Ale". Barclay Perkins' version was called Ale 4d. Whitbread's LA. These beers hung around until WW II, only disappearing when a new round of shortages and restrictions knocked standard Mild down to a similar gravity.


Fuller's X Ale 1914 - 1920
Date Year Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Attenuation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp pale malt black malt no. 3 sugar glucose intense sugar caramel oat husks flaked maize primings
13th Nov 1914 X Mild 1049.6 1011.1 5.09 77.65% 5.15431 1.15 2
60º 71.05%
11.99% 6.00%
0.79%
6.30% 3.87%
17th Nov 1914 X Mild 1050.7 1011.6 5.17 77.05% 5.43933 2.38 2
60º 74.92%
12.49% 5.55%


6.24% 0.81%
8th Dec 1914 X Mild 1048.4 1011.4 4.91 76.56% 5.43935 1.11 2
60.5º 82.25%
6.96% 3.48%


6.53% 0.78%
7th Jan 1915 X Mild 1047.7 1013.6 4.51 71.54% 5.22874 1.07 1.5 1.75 60º 78.56%
7.35% 3.68%


6.89% 3.53%
2nd Jun 1915 X Mild 1049.4 1011.1 5.07 77.57% 5.43461 1.13 2
60º 74.79%
11.59% 5.80%


6.96% 0.86%
2nd Jun 1915 X Mild 1044.9 1009.1 4.73 79.63% 5.43461 1.02 2
60º 74.79%
11.59% 5.80%


6.96% 0.86%
29th May 1916 X Mild 1049.9 1011.4 5.09 77.22% 6.4071 1.35 2
60º 70.58%
8.30% 9.69%


10.38% 1.04%
4th Jul 1916 X Mild 1047.1 1011.4 4.73 75.88% 5.91424 1.17 2
60º 77.25%
5.35% 5.35%


11.04% 1.01%
3rd Aug 1916 X Mild 1047.0 1008.6 5.08 81.71% 5.91424 1.16 2
60º 77.25%
5.35% 5.35%


11.04% 1.01%
16th Aug 1916 X Mild 1044.5 1011.1 4.42 75.11% 5.82614 1.12 2
60º 76.18%
5.44% 5.44%


10.88% 2.06%
26th Oct 1916 X Mild 1046.0 1007.5 5.09 83.73% 6.4071 1.27 2
60º 77.25%
5.35% 5.35%


11.04% 1.01%
12th Jan 1917 X Mild 1045.2 1008.3 4.88 81.62% 6.0941 1.28 2
59.5º 74.30%
5.31% 5.31%


10.61% 4.48%
5th Apr 1917 X Mild 1045.9 1009.7 4.79 78.89% 4.29841 0.83 2
60º 77.56%
4.43% 5.91%


11.08% 1.02%
10th Aug 1917 X Mild 1034.8 1006.6 3.72 80.88% 7.62423 1.10 2
62º 96.49% 2.88%





0.63%
22nd Aug 1917 X Mild 1034.5 1006.6 3.69 80.75% 7.30689 1.09 2
62º 93.73% 2.87%





3.40%
26th Aug 1917 X Mild 1036.0 1008.0 3.69 77.66% 6.83869 1.19 2
61.5º 76.70%


1.12%
5.71% 11.42% 5.05%
29th Oct 1917 X Mild 1035.9 1007.8 3.72 78.40% 7.21925 1.17 2
61.5º 81.18%


1.18%

12.09% 5.54%
4th Jan 1918 X Mild 1035.3 1008.3 3.57 76.47% 6.27451 1.17 2
61º 77.32%
5.15%
1.10%
5.80%
10.62%
15th Apr 1918 X Mild 1027.3 1005.5 2.88 79.74% 6.37858 0.90 1.5 1.75 61º 65.23%
6.21% 15.53% 1.39%
4.66%
6.98%
21st Jun 1918 X Mild 1027.4 1007.2 2.67 73.71% 6.68653 0.86 2
60º 74.61%
12.43% 4.97% 1.45%


6.53%
4th Nov 1918 X Mild 1028.0 1006.6 2.83 76.26% 7.06311 0.88 1.5
61.5º 77.80%
5.93% 11.86% 1.71%


2.71%
20th Jan 1919 X Mild 1026.7 1004.7 2.91 82.38% 6.89572 0.89 1.5
60º 76.08%

17.90% 1.68%


4.33%
12th Apr 1919 X Mild 1027.4 1005.3 2.93 80.81% 6.94391 0.86 1.5
63º 76.22%

14.12% 1.74%

4.23% 3.69%
20th Jun 1919 X Mild 1027.2 1006.4 2.76 76.58% 6.77188 0.82 1.5
61.5º 69.56%

14.05% 1.88%

10.54% 3.96%
22nd Aug 1919 X Mild 1030.5 1007.8 3.01 74.59% 7.25981 0.99 1.5
60.5º 68.60%

17.67% 1.73%

9.35% 2.65%
15th Sep 1919 X Mild 1030.6 1006.1 3.24 80.05% 6.63937 0.91 1.5 1.5 60.5º 64.09%

16.62% 1.63%

10.68% 6.98%
9th Feb 1920 X Mild 1030.5 1006.4 3.19 79.09% 6.88446 0.91 1.5 1.5 62º 74.69%

6.04% 1.74%

13.58% 3.95%
11th Jun 1920 X Mild 1030.5 1005.3 3.34 82.76% 6.98231 0.89 1.5 1.5 62º 77.90%

3.46% 1.93%

13.85% 2.86%
26th Apr 1920 X Mild 1030.5 1005.5 3.30 81.83% 6.93193 0.89 1.5
62º 78.32%

3.48% 1.94%

13.05% 3.21%
6th Dec 1920 X Mild 1030.1 1005.0 3.32 83.44% 6.91815 0.89 1.5 1.5 62º 77.29%

3.38% 1.43%

13.94% 3.97%
Source:
Fuller's brewing records.


Fuller's XX Ale 1919 - 1920
Date Year Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Attenuation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp pale malt glucose other sugar flaked maize primings
22nd Aug 1919 XX Mild 1041.0 1011.9 3.84 70.93% 7.25981 1.33 1.5
61º 68.60% 17.67% 1.73% 9.35% 2.65%
15th Sep 1919 XX Mild 1041.2 1008.9 4.28 78.48% 6.63937 1.22 1.5 1.5 61º 64.09% 16.62% 1.63% 10.68% 6.98%
9th Feb 1920 XX Mild 1041.0 1009.7 4.14 76.37% 6.88446 1.22 1.5 1.5 62º 74.69% 6.04% 1.74% 13.58% 3.95%
16th Feb 1920 XX Mild 1041.2 1008.9 4.27 78.47% 6.73643 1.21 1.5
63º 73.78% 5.47% 1.71% 13.66% 5.38%
11th Jun 1920 XX Mild 1041.2 1009.4 4.20 77.12% 6.98231 1.20 1.5 1.5 62º 77.90% 3.46% 1.93% 13.85% 2.86%
26th Apr 1920 XX Mild 1041.0 1007.2 4.47 82.44% 6.93193 1.19 1.5
62º 78.32% 3.48% 1.94% 13.05% 3.21%
6th Dec 1920 XX Mild 1041.0 1009.1 4.21 77.69% 6.91815 1.21 1.5 1.5 60º 77.29% 3.38% 1.43% 13.94% 3.97%
Source:
Fuller's brewing records.


Unlike other London brewers, Fuller's didn't introduce a beer called Government Ale. Instead, they knocked down the strength of their X Ale to fit the Government Ale specifications. Both Whitbread and Barclay Perkins discontinued their X Ale and introduced a new beer called GA.

You can see the changes made to the recipe as the war progressed. All from necessity. The pre-war recipe was pretty simple: pale malt, No. 3 invert sugar, glucose and flaked maize. The sudden disappearance of the latter three in 1917 was surely because of their unavailability. With the odd result of the beer becoming all malt, with the exception of primings. The colour coming from black malt rather than No. 3 invert. The next phase, later in 1917, was to use a small amount of a brewing sugar called intense for the colour, a fair amount of maize, but no other sugar.

No. 3 invert makes a comeback in 1918 for a while before the recipe settles into its postwar form of pale malt, glucose, intense and flaked maize. Where's the crystal malt? Fuller's didn't use it. Before WW I you don't see it used much anywhere. Sometimes in Mild Ales, but almost never in Pale Ales. That's a comparatively recent phenomenon. Fuller's were pretty typical in using only pale malt in all their beers except for Porter and Stout.

Next it'll be the turn of Fuller's Pale Ales. Or their Porter and Stout. Haven't quite made my mind up yet.